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Planting
When you have received your purchased roses, you will most likely
find that if they have been sent during the dormant season they
would have already been pruned hard back. If this is not the case
you will need to do this before planting, to prevent wind rock.
Roses are gross feeders, so it is essential to add humus to the
soil prior to planting. Spent sterilized mushroom compost is ideal;
mix this with your own soil. If planting in the autumn or early
winter, add also two or three handfuls of bone meal and mix with
soil in the bottom of the hole. If planting in spring or summer
use blood, fish and bone fertilizer which is more readily available
to the plant, whenever you plant your rose you should place a couple
of teaspoons of rootgrow into the bottom of the planting hole. Do
not mix this in with the soil, this world best if the plant is placed
directly on top of the rootgrow and the roots are in direct contact.
Place the rose in the centre of the hole spread the roots out. Ensure
that the graft union is below the surface. Backfill the hole with
the enriched soil. Always make sure you firm the rose in well as
they don’t enjoy loose soil. When planted, a good thick mulch
should be applied round each rose; horse manure, spent mushroom
compost or similar, this will ultimately help the health of the
rose.
Pruning
As mentioned before, bush roses should be cut back to about 6
– 9 inches when first planted. Subsequent years they should
be cut back twice, just by about half of their growth in the autumn
and again in the spring (March) to two or three buds of the previous
year’s cut. Floribundas are usually first to flower in the
next summer, so they are cut back less than hybrid teas. Climbers
are shortened back to good healthy buds and weak and dead branches
dispatched.
Ramblers are only lightly pruned as their flower buds are formed
on the previous season’s growth. They tend to have one magnificent
flowering period in June, whereas climbers tend to have repeat flowering
throughout summer, but, for this to happen it is essential to dead
head for best results. Dead heading is also a must for Hybrid Teas
and Floribundas.
Health
To keep roses healthy, it is important to feed regularly, mulch
each spring and add fertilizers that have trace elements, i.e. Vitax
Q4 or Toprose – liquid feed is also good during summer.
Spraying may also be necessary in parts of the country that has
cleaner air, usually every two to three weeks with a combined spray
against mildew, black spot, and aphids. Some gardeners swear that
dressings of Magnesium Sulphate will help against disease.
Finally, if you do not have success with particular varieties,
don’t give up, try new, more resistant varieties, sooner or
later you will have a rose garden to be proud of.
Cuts should be made 6mm ¼” above and sloping away
at a 45º angle from an outward facing bud. Always use a good
shape pair of secateurs, cheaper models will crush and bruise the
stems.
Climbers
For newly planted roses that are being trained up a pillar or
post, wind stems round and round until you reach the pergola.
Cut back the side shoots to 1 or 2 buds from the main canes. Tie
any new growth down horizontally, if bare at base: Cut one of the
main canes hard back to encourage new growth.
Ramblers
Cut out canes, which have flowered last year, and horizontally
train new canes. If the rose is a number of years old, cut back
side shoots on the old canes or back to where a new shoot has sprouted.
Hybrid Tea Bush
Prune out weak or diseased canes. Thin out and remove crossing
canes. Cut remaining canes to about 20-25cm or 8”-10”
to nearest bud. Vigorous varieties benefit from less hard pruning,
around 45-60cm or 18-24”
Floribundas
Follow the same steps as with the Hybrid Tea except the main canes
will be 30-35cm or 12-14”. Any side shoots cut back by about
two thirds or three shoots.
Shrub or New English
Shorten the main canes to a manageable height and side shoots
to around two thirds or three to five buds.
After pruning feed with a well balance food.
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